An Oasis of Art, Japan

All over the world, the finest art is found almost exclusively in big cities. But Japan has always done things differently, and on this itinerary you'll discover that Japan's true artistic heart lies not amid skyscrapers and neon – but amongst the rural islands of the Seto Inland Sea. Stretching 450 kilometres end-to-end and encompassing nearly 3,000 tiny islands, the Seto Inland Sea lies cradled between the three main Japanese islands of Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu. Though blessed with beautiful natural scenery and a temperate year-round climate, until recently few outsiders ever visited it the region. That was until the early 1990s, when a quiet revolution occurred amongst the quiet fishing villages and deserted beaches of the Seto Islands. It began on the island of Naoshima with the opening of the Benesse House Museum - the luxury hotel and art gallery designed by feted architect Tadao Ando. Fast forward nearly 30 years, and the region is overflowing with world-class art. Installations by international artists stand dotted across the hills and beaches, hidden in empty houses and abandoned shrines, and even, on Inujima Island, set in the ruins of a Meiji-era copper refinery. On this itinerary you'll discover the very best of this hidden world as you explore the tiny islands of Inujima and Teshima, cycle across the sea on the Shimanami Kaido, and spend four nights where it all began - at Benesse House. In addition to your journey through the Inland Sea, you'll spend three full days in the cultural capital of Kyoto, where ancient temples rub shoulders with modern art, stop off in Takamatsu, home of the Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum, and round off your trip in hectic Osaka - perhaps Japan's most exciting city. Combining the very best of Japan's traditional and modern artistic traditions and taking you far from the tourist trail, this is the ultimate itinerary for art-lovers in Japan.

Kyoto

There is nowhere more special than Kyoto. It is home to everything associated with traditional Japan: striking temples, mysterious geisha, sacred tea ceremony, Zen rock gardens, imperial palaces, refined cuisine, ornate kimono, bamboo groves, street-corner shrines and lively festivals.

Kyoto was founded in 794 as Japan's capital and the home of Emperor Kanmu. Today it's Japan's seventh-largest city, not a tiny rural village, and it is the juxtaposition of modern, urban life against time-honoured traditions that makes this one of the most fascinating of Asian cities. Situated on a plateau, surrounded on three sides by mountains and bisected by the River Kamo, the city was laid out as a grid system in the tradition of Tang China. As the epicentre of Japanese culture and history, Kyoto attracts more than 40 million visitors a year - so while the stunning Golden Pavilion and the impressive wooden stage at Kiyomizu-dera are must-see destinations, you won't escape the tour buses in peak season! However, the real Kyoto heartbeat is lurking just around the corner for those who make the effort to get off the main tourist trail and seek it out.

Onomichi

Onomichi is a medium-sized town located on the southern coast of Hiroshima prefecture, around 80km east of Hiroshima. The town is built on a series of hills which face out to the Inland Sea, a beautiful expanse of water dotted with smaller islands.

Onomichi's main historical role was as a port, but the town also has a strong cultural background, with a large number of small temples dotted around the hills, all joined by a convenient walking route. Onomichi also literary and cinematic links with several popular authors and directors born in the town. Onomichi is also the starting (or ending) point for the Shimanami Kaido, a 60km cycling route that hops from island to island linking Honshu with Shikoku.

Omishima Island

Omishima is an island roughly halfway along the Shimanami Kaido cycle route, making it an excellent place to stop and break the journey.

The Shimanami Kaido is a purpose-built cycle route that runs from Onomichi on Honshu Island to Imabari on Shikoku Island, traversing six small islands via a series of bridges. The 70 kilometre route offers gentle cycling and superb views over the Seto Inland Sea, and though it's easily tackled in a day, breaking it in two allows extra time for detours to explore the islands along the way. About half-way through the journey, the island of Omishima is a great place to spend the night. On the opposite side of the island from the cycle route, facing out to sea, is the Toyo Ito Museum of Architecture. Housed in two striking buildings known as "Steel Hut" and "Silver Hut", the museum was designed by the 2013 Pritzker Prize winner, Toyo Ito, and hosts exhibits relating to his work and other themes in contemporary Japanese architecture. One of the themes of the museum is the revitalisation of rural Japanese communities through art and design: a very salient subject here in the Seto Islands!

Takamatsu

For many visitors Takamatsu is the gateway to Shikoku; the large, modern city on the north coast is a major transport hub funnelling road, rail and ferry traffic from Honshu across the island. But if you find yourself passing through, it is well worth breaking your journey here for a few hours.

Takamatsu is home to Japan's largest garden, Ritsurin-koen, which sits at the foot of Mount Shuin. During the Edo period feudal lords spent 100 years constructing the strolling garden which is designed to provide viewing enjoyment in all seasons. There are several interesting museums in Takamatsu including the Sanuki Folkcraft Museum and a sculpture garden designed by Isamu Noguchi. Also of interest are the plateau of Yashima, an ancient battle ground with views of the Inland Sea and nearby Shikoku-Mura, a collection of traditional houses displaying Shikoku architecture and construction techniques.

Naoshima

Amongst the 3,000 islands that pepper the Seto Island Sea lies Naoshima, a tiny island known for its sandy beaches, relaxed atmosphere and most importantly its extraordinary collection of modern art.

A small island with a population of just 3,400, Naoshima first came to prominence in the art world when Benesse House opened in 1992 with the theme of "coexistence of nature, architecture and art". The building, designed by the famous Japanese architect Tadao Ando, combines individually designed guestrooms with gallery space to create an entirely original and completely unique accommodation experience. Since the opening of Benesse House, Naoshima's artistic credentials have gone from strength to strength. Today, visitors will find the island scattered with galleries and installations – not just housed in conventional museums but in disused shrines, ordinary houses, old workshops, and out on the beaches. The Chichu Museum, meanwhile, was established in 2004 and contains works from Claude Monet, Walter De Maria and James Turrell housed in buildings designed by Tadao Ando. Even for those who know Japan well, Naoshima is refreshing, unexpected, and utterly unlike anything else you'll experience on your trip. Through the originality and industry of a few innovative artists, architects and thinkers, a lovely yet obscure fishing island has turned itself into one of Japan's most fascinating destinations: it is a truly remarkable success story.

Osaka

Osaka is the concrete beating heart of the Kansai region - Japan's second biggest industrial area with an output rivalling that of Australia. This is modern Japan writ large: massive crowds, huge department stores, karaoke boxes, bars, restaurants and clubs one on top of the other.

Osaka has all the galleries and museums you'd expect of a large city, but the best way to experience the character of the place is on the street and in the buzzing, larger-than-life entertainment quarters. Osaka has a reputation for a work-hard-play-hard mentality, and from about 6pm the streets are alive with businessmen, shop workers and students all out to relax and have a good time. Most importantly for the visitor, Osaka is one of the best places to try Japanese food, whether it's octopus balls from a street-side stand, Okonomiyaki savoury pancakes (a regional speciality), or some of best sushi in the world. In addition to food and drink, Osaka has an impressive clutch of attractions to keep the visitor entertained. Universal Studios Japan is located just a short distance out of the city, boasting Harry Potter World amongst other interesting film sets, and at the unusual Instant Ramen Museum guests can have a go at creating their own cup noodle. Finally, for those who enjoy a good soak in a Japanese hot spring, Osaka Spa World (Japan's premier onsen theme park) is an absolute must.

• Hopping from island to island across the Seto Inland Sea

• Visiting the many art galleries in Naoshima to immerse in the combination of nature and architectural art

• Listening to the sound of the waves lapping on Angel Road, a hidden sandbar path that reveals itself only at low tide

• Cycle the spectacular Shimanami Kaido route

• Stay at a hotel-cum-art-gallery on Naoshima Island

• Explore the "art islands" of the Seto Inland Sea

• See modern and traditional art at Kyoto's best galleries

• Admire outstanding architecture at the Miho, Isamu Noguchi and Toyo Ito museums

• Explore the temples of Kyoto with an expert local guide